Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
